Saturday, October 11, 2014

Review : Dinner at Eastern Seaboard

People of Co. Louth, you don't know how lucky you are to have a restaurant like this in your neighbourhood.  Eastern Seaboard is a big corner unit in a new building which embraces the space with a long banquette set into the curved end wall.  Long narrow chalkboards holding specials clad the central column and blades of grass in little glass bottles echo the height of the room. The floor staff are young and cheery in long navy striped aprons.  The corner bar is dark wood with attractive wine filled shelving and vintage lanterns suspended over the counter.  A large stars & stripes flag flutters gently at the entrance to the kitchen. Jeni Glasgow, the co-owner together with chef Reuven Diaz, glides from table to table greeting guests and ensuring that everything runs calmly and smoothly.  The presence of a former colleague of mine, Michael C behind the bar, adds to the air of happy calm.

Water arrives, together with an individual loaf of bread scattered with pumpkin seeds & sea salt which is warm and fragrant. A slice each will have to suffice as there's eating to be done.  Firstly, crostini on a sheet of parchment are crisp beneath with slow roasted cherry tomatoes for sweetness on top and saltiness from the liberally sprinkled parmesan. Pork Belly Cos Lettuce wraps are a sea of green with chunks of pork and crunchy kimchi beneath. The dreaded coriander appears but is mercifully silenced by the chili.  Thank goodness.

Beer battered haddock arrives : four large chunks of haddock with fresh, light thinly sliced potato salad & fried shallot scattered greens (cabbage, runner beans & broccoli) in bowls for easy eating. A demitasse of chive sprinkled tartare sauce on the side for dipping. No bright orange abomination here, just gently smoked fish in a beer batter which actually tasted of beer.

Roast corn fed free range Chicken for The Hubs.  Bronze chicken skin, moist breast meat beneath lying on crumbled thyme and sausage stuffing with a confit leg alongside. A pail of chips and a bowl of mixed leaves with a lemon shallot vinaigrette completed his plate.

Dessert was a special as Eastern Seaboard were celebrating the apple with Bramley apple fritters, cinnamon ice cream and apple twigs. Decadent fried batter with a hint of spice from the ice cream and intense dehydrated Apple twigs. A welcome introduction to autumn.

Dinner including a Coke, a pint of Heineken and a glass of Puna Snipe Sauvignon Blanc came to €61.85.

Eastern Seaboard is a stunning example of great food cooked simply but with great love.  It gets very busy, especially at weekends so follow my example and book a table.

Eastern Seaboard Bar & Grill
Bryanstown Cross Route, Drogheda, Co. Louth, Ireland
Tel : +353 41 9802570

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